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Main / Tajikistan / Mountaineering and expeditions in Tajikistan / Climbing to Peak Energia (5,120 m) and Peak Zamok (5,070 m), Fann Mountains

Climbing to Peak Energia (5,120 m) and Peak Zamok (5,070 m), Fann Mountains (EXP 08)


The itinerary: Dushanbe - "Artuch" mountaineering camp - Kulicalon Lakes - Alaudin Pass - Alaudin Lake - Mutnoe Lake - Chimtarga Pass - Energy Peak - Mutnoe Lake - Zamok Peak - Mutnoe Lake - Alaudin lakes - "Vertical" mountain camp - Dushanbe

        Simple climbing to peaks Zamok (5070m) and Energy (5120m) in the Fan Mountains, it’s a beautiful mountainous area of Gissar-Alay are the apogee of interesting tracking, during which you come into the world of turquoise lakes and dizzying five thousandth peaks, and have acclimatization before ascent. Climbing routes are simple, but require good physical fitness, psychological stability, and the basic skills of ascent – descent with railing and walking in bundles using crampons.

Program conditions:

The route has a sports category of difficulty (2A-2B depending on the depth of the snow cover), is available to all tourists in good physical shape and with basic skills in climbing - descending along railings and walking in groups with the use of crampons. The weather during trekking is usually stable, warm, sunny, but precipitation and wind are possible. Daytime temperature, depending on the altitude, from 10 to 30 C. Daytime transitions are 5-10 km, the maximum difference in altitude is ~1600 m, the maximum altitude is 5120 m above sea level.
During the trekking, tourists' belongings (no more than 12 kg / person) are carried by pack animals or porters. The group is accompanied by a mountain guide and a cook. Age limit - 18 years.
 
The mountain guide is the group leader and the authorized representative of the company on the route. The guide has the right to change the "thread" of the route due to weather or other conditions that threaten the safety of tourists.
 
Group assembly: tourists must arrive at the starting point of the tour on the day of the program (in extreme cases - before 08:00 on the 2nd day). Expenses in case of early arrival / late departure (before the start / end date of the tour) are paid by the tourist additionally. "Asia Adventures" will help you book a hotel for this time, meet you at the airport and offer an additional program. In any case, you will be surrounded by our care and attention.


Each participant must have: a helmet, crampons, chest harness, ice axe, backpack, sleeping bag, sleeping pad, warm clothes, comfortable trekking shoes, sneakers, waterproof and windproof outerwear, flashlight, sunscreen, sunglasses, headwear (panama, cap, hat).
 
For small groups, it is possible to rent mountain equipment to ensure safety on the route: helmets, crampons, chest harnesses, ice axes.
 
Meals: food on the trek is prepared by the cook of "Asia Adventures" (help from tourists is welcome).
 
Documents: You must have a passport valid for at least 3 months on the end date of the tour and medical insurance.
 


Tour program

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1  

Arrival in Dushanbe.

Arrival in Dushanbe. Meeting at the airport. Transfer from Dushanbe to the mountaineering camp "Artuch" (240 km; 5-6 hours). Accommodation in cottages. Rest and preparation for the active part of the trek. Overnight in cottages (2200 m).
2  

Beginning of the active part of the trek. Ascent to the Kulikalon Lakes.

Beginning of the active part of the trek. Ascent along a good trail to the Kulikalon Lakes (10 km; 5 hours; +700 m). 10 km - distance covered in a day; 5 hours - walking time spent on movement during the day; +700 m - ascent to a height in meters from the overnight place. On the way up during the day there is an opportunity to admire the wonderful panorama of the Kulikalon wall and the surrounding peaks over 4000 m high (Adamtash, Mirali, Rudaki, etc.). The trail goes through a picturesque juniper forest along the basin of the Kulikalon lakes (14 lakes in total) with the purest emerald-blue water. There is fish. Camp on the shore of Lake Dushokha (3000 m). After lunch, a walk along the Kulikalon basin.
3  

Ascent to the Alaudin pass (3860 m) and descent to the Alaudin lakes.

Ascent to the Alaudin pass (3860 m) and descent to the Alaudin lakes (7 km; 6 hours; +860 m; -1060 m). During the long climb, the panorama of the wall and the view of the Kulikalon lakes please the eye. On the pass saddle - an impressive view of the Chapdara peak (5197 m) and the valley of the Chapdara river. Far below, the bowls of the Alaudin lakes are clearly visible, amazing in their color of water from light blue to rich ultramarine. Camp on the shore of the lake (2800 m).
4  

Ascent to Mutnoye Lake (8 km; 3-4 hours; +800 m).

Ascent to Mutnoye Lake (8 km; 3-4 hours; +800 m). During the day, a beautiful panorama of the peaks: Zamok (5070 m), Energiya (5105 m) and Chimtarga (5489 m). The harsh nature of the alpine zone of the mountains, hanging glaciers and steep moraine shafts. On the way there are rare birches and a small lake, nicknamed for its round shape - Lake Piala, giant steps of a retreating glacier, polished rocks. High in the sky you can see circling eagles. Camp on the shore of Lake Mutnoye (3550 m).
5  

Climbing along the scree and then along the glacier under the Chimtarga Pass.

Climbing along the scree and then along the glacier under the Chimtarga Pass (5 km; 4-5 hours; +850 m). Somewhere far below us is the Kaznok Pass, opposite the Zamok Peak with a flat top looms. Camp under the pass (4450 m).
6  

Climbing to the Energy Peak.

Early start in the morning, this day - climbing the Energy Peak. We climb to the Chimtarga Pass, 4750 m. Then we move in groups, you will need crampons. Here is the top – Energy Peak, 5120 m. From here, a magnificent panorama of the famous peaks of the Fann Mountains opens up: Chimtarga (5489 m), Bodkhona (5138 m), Chapdara (5197 m), Bolshaya and Malaya Ganza (5306 m and 5031 m), Sakharnaya Golova Peak (4987 m). Descent to Mutnoye Lake (9 km; +660 m, -1510 m; 8-10 hours). Camp on the lake shore (3550 m).
7  

Approach to Zamok Peak to an altitude of 4300 m.

Approach to Zamok Peak to an altitude of 4300 m. Setting up camp and preparing for the ascent. Dinner and overnight in tents. (5 km; +800 m; 3-4 hours).
8  

Ascent to Zamok Peak, 5070 m.

Early morning start - ascent to Zamok Peak, 5070 m (9 km; +770 m, - 1570 m, 7-8 hours). Return to the camp on Lake Mutnoye (3550 m).
9  

Trekking, descent to Lake Alaudin along the ascent route (8 km; 2.5-3 hours; -800 m).

Trekking, descent to Lake Alaudin along the ascent route (8 km; 2.5-3 hours; -800 m). Camp on the lake shore (2800 m).
10  

Descent to the Vertical alpine camp (2 km, 30 min, -135 m).

Descent to the Vertical alpine camp (2 km, 30 min, -135 m). Transfer to Dushanbe (150 km; 4-5 hours). Accommodation at the hotel. In the afternoon - a tour of Dushanbe: the Buddha Museum, Somoni Square.
11  

Flight home.

Breakfast at the hotel. Transfer to the airport. Flight home.

Price by request

What is included

  • Accommodation in double rooms at the Shumon 4* hotel (or similar) in Dushanbe.
  • Accommodation in cottages in the Artuch alpine camp (no single accommodation!)
  • Transport – according to the program
  • Accompanying guide during the entire program
  • Meals – full board
  • On the mountain part of the tour: mountain guide, cook, porters, tents, kitchen equipment, dishes, donkeys for carrying loads, public mountaineering equipment: ropes, carabiners, rock hooks, ice screws
  • Trekking permits
  • Entrance tickets to the main monuments according to the program
What is not included
  • Single occupancy at a hotel in Dushanbe – $50/person.
  • Supplement for single accommodation in tents - 60$/person/program
  • Visa to Tajikistan (if necessary)
  • International flights
  • Medical insurance
  • Individual mountaineering equipment: sleeping pads, sleeping bags, ice axes, harnesses, crampons
  • Any additional expenses
  • Tips for staff
Ask the operator for group (more than 6 people) and seasonal prices

Price by request

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