The itinerary: Dushanbe - Jirgital - Base Camp (Moskvina Glacier) - Jirgital - Dushanbe
Korjenevskaya Peak is situated in the northern side of the Academy of Science Ridge, 13 km. far from Communism peak. The peak was discovered by Russian geographer N.Korjenevskiy on 23 August, 1910 and called after Evgeniya Korjenevskaya (the wife of the explorer). Since 1927 name Korjenevskaya peak appeared officially on geographical maps. The first successful ascent to the peak was done in 22 August 1953. The group consisted of 8 alpinists from Leningrad under the leadership of A.Ugarov reached the top from the North from Korjenevskaya glacier climbing along the Northern range. Now there are about 10 different complexity known routes to the top. The simplest, popular and safe way goes along the South ridge from the Korjenevskiy glacier.
Tour program
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1
Arrival in Dushanbe.
Arrival in Dushanbe. Accommodation in hotel.
2
Flight to Base Camp by helicopter.
Flight to Base Camp by helicopter (Moskvina glacier).
3
Preparation day.
Preparation day.
4
Acclimatization climb Vorobiova Peak.
Acclimatization climb Vorobiova Peak, up to the camp at 5300 m.
5
Climb the summit of Vorobiova Peak.
Climb the summit of Vorobiova Peak. (5690 m). Descend to Base Camp.
6
Rest day.
Rest day.
7
Preparation day.
Preparation day.
8
Climb to Camp 1 (5300 m.)
Climb to Camp 1 (5300 m.) Cross over Moskvina Glacier and ascent along the good trail to advanced BC (5100 m) (6-8 hs) from where you carry on to Camp 1 (5300 m). We usually use 2 ropes for climbing between 4800 m and 5100 m. Camp (5100 m.) - Camp (5300 m.) The route goes along rather steep glacier, which comes down from the south slope of the mountain. Camp 5300 m at moraine. From the Camp 5300m, if visibility is good, one can see the entire path up to the summit. 5100m to 5300m two more 2 ropes.
9
Climb to Camp 2 (5800 m).
Climb to Camp 2 (5800 m).
10
Climb to (6100 m - 6400 m).
Climb to (6100 m - 6400 m). Descend for a night stay to Camp 2. From 5800 m to 6100m we use 4 ropes.
11
Descend to BC.
Descend to BC.
12
Rest day.
Rest day.
15
Climb to Camp 2 (5800 m).
Climb to Camp 2 (5800 m).
16
Climb to Camp 3 (6400 m).
Climb to Camp 3 (6400 m).
17
Ascend to the summit 7105 m and descend to Camp 3 or Camp 2.
Ascend to the summit 7105 m and descend to Camp 3 or Camp 2. The route follows on the snow crest towards the top. Enjoy astounding view of thousand summits with most magnificent and impressive one - Communism Peak.
18
Descend to Base Camp.
Descend to Base Camp.
19
Reserve days.
Reserve day in case of bad weather or climb to Communism peak.
28
Take helicopter flight to Dushanbe.
Take helicopter flight to Dushanbe. Overnight in hotel.
