The itinerary: Dushanbe - Jirgital - Base Camp (Moskvina Glacier) - Jirgital - Dushanbe
Communism Peak is situated in the Northern-West part of Pamir where Academy of Science Ridge wedges into Peter the First Ridge. Military topographer I. Dorodiev did the geodetic shooting of the middle part of Fedchenko glacier and surrounding peaks that were unknown at that time. The coordinates of the peak and its height (7,495 m.) was defined in 1929 upon results of photo-geodetic shooting. In 1931 it was named Stalin Peak, in 1961 - Communism Peak, in 1999 - Somoni Peak.
Tour program
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1
Arrival in Dushanbe.
Arrival in Dushanbe. Accommodation in hotel.
2
Transfer to Dgirgital.
Transfer to Dgirgital. Flight by helicopter to the Base Camp (Moskvina Glacier)
3
Preparation day.
Preparation day.
4
Acclimatization climb to Vorobiova Peak.
Acclimatization climb to Vorobiova Peak (to the camp at 5300m)
5
Climb the summit of Vorobiov Peak.
Climb the summit of Vorobiov Peak. (5690 m). Descend to BC.
6
Rest day.
Rest day.
7
Preparation day.
Preparation day.
8
Climb to Camp 1 (5100 m.)
Climb to Camp 1 (5100 m.) Hike up the right side of the Walter Glacier"s moraine. Across the glacier and further up the ice-snow "pillow" under the sheer slope of Big Pamir Plateau. It is necessary to cross it as early as possible and at maximum speed. Past "pillow" further up by rocky stretch to the crest where C1 is set (about 6-7 hours). Use of 2-3 ropes.
9
Climb to Camp 2 (5800 m.)
Climb to Camp 2 (5800 m.) Northern ridge (4-5 hrs).This part of the route is technically not difficult: wide snow-covered spur partly 35 to 40 degrees steep. The camp is set in a trough. From 5100 m till 5300m use 2-3 ropes, from 5300m till 5800m the usage of the ropes is also necessary.
10
Descend to Base Camp (BC).
Descend to Base Camp (BC).
11
Rest day.
Rest day.
12
Preparation day.
Preparation day.
13
Climb to Camp 1 (5100 m)
Climb to Camp 1 (5100 m)
14
Climb to Camp 2 (5800 m)
Climb to Camp 2 (5800 m)
15
Climb to Camp 3 (6100 m). Camp
Climb to Camp 3 (6100 m). Camp "Vostok". Have early start and ascend to the two-headed summit. Climbing in roped party. Traverse up to the left to the top and then descend to Big Pamir Plateau (4-5hrs). From 5800 m till 6000 m use 4 ropes, from 6100m till 6200m use 2 ropes. While descending to Big Pamir Plateau use 1-2 ropes to cross over a crevasse.
16
Climb to Camp 4 (6900 m) or (6700 m).
Climb to Camp 4 (6900 m) or (6700 m). Early start and climb on the northern snow/ice slope of Mt. Peak Dushanbe (7-8 hrs). . Climbing in roped-party. An ascent is technically easy. After ascent to Mt. Peak Dushanbe (7000 m) descend to the camp at 6900 m.
17
Ascend to the summit 7495 m and descend to Camp 4 or Camp 2.
Ascend to the summit 7495 m and descend to Camp 4 or Camp 2. Early start and climb up the steep snow slope keeping the steep rocks on the right. Carry on straight to the summit and then back to Camp 4 (6900 m). (8-9 hrs).
18
Descend to Camp 1 or Camp 2.
Descend to Camp 1 or Camp 2.
19
Descend to Base Camp.
Descend to Base Camp.
20
Reserve days in case of bad weather.
Reserve days in case of bad weather.
28
Flight by helicopter to Dgirgital.Transfer to Dushanbe.
Flight by helicopter to Dgirgital.Transfer to Dushanbe.
